Front Panel:

Rust does attack this area particularly where the front panel joins the front wings. The panel is again bolted to the main bodyshell and does not take great levels of skill to replace. Remember that early 120’s e.g. B16 Models had a different front panel with a larger centre section. The Volvo Enthusiasts Club can obtain a reproduction of this early panel, made in plastic and of very high quality. Later front panels are still available and will fit ALL models providing the correct grills are used. Note 3 types of front panel used – Type 1 B16, Type 2 Early B18 up to 1963, Type 3 Later Front panel from 1963 will fit all models.

Doors:

Doors as on other cars are prone to rust at the bottom in both the skin and the door frame bottom. Good replacements are hard to find, particularly for the 2 Door models and rear estate doors. Repair Door Skins are available through the Volvo Enthusiasts Club.

Sills:

Rust can sometimes be found in this area although some models did have galvanised outer sills fitted from new.

Rear Wings:

Check both the front (next to sill) and rear lower (under bumper) sections and the wheel arch edges. Repair panels are available for all these areas. Full replacement wings are not available. The inner wheel arch can suffer from rust. Check both inside the car under rear seat and in the boot.

Rear Panel – Saloon:

The rear panel does not in general suffer with rust.

Rear Panel – Estate:

Rust can affect this area and the rear section of the boot floor

Bonnet:

Rust in the bonnet frame is not common but can affect the front part of the frame where the lock is attached.

Boot Lid – Saloon:

Rust is not common in this area; good second hand boot lids are not difficult to find

Rear Tailgates – Estate:

The rear tailgates – 2 split horizontally in American style suffer very badly from rust. There are no repair panels available and good second hand tailgates are extremely difficult to find

Estate Rear Side Windows:

Rust can effect the lower edge of the side rear window Check with care for ANY signs of rust coming from under the seal. Repair can be expensive expensive.

Inner Front Wings:

Check the condition of the inner front wings, particularly around the battery box. Also check the chassis rail under the wing, above the road wheel, which runs from the headlight bowl to the bulkhead. – Repair Panel available.

Floorpan:

Rust in the front floorpan is not common but corrosion may be found above front outrigger in the front foot wells and rear section in Estate Cars.

Boot Floor – Saloon & Estate:

Rust can affect his area but is not common. However the Spare Wheel Well on Saloon models is a common area for rust, as is the boot floor on the opposite side of the boot. Take particular care to check the condition of the floor in Estates as rust can affect this area badly on these vehicles.

Front Chassis – Moving backwards from front panel:

1/ Front of chassis: Rust is particularly bad news here. Check around the steering box/steering idler and the anti-roll bar and front bumper iron mountings. A repair section is available.

2/ Radiator Crossmember: Check the condition of the radiator crossmember. A Repair Panel is available but can be difficult to replace. Replacement crossmembers are available to replace the member the front panel has to be removed and the new member welded into position. In extreme cases the front of the member can have totally rusted away.

3/ Engine Crossmember or Cradle: Rust can affect this major assembly - second hand cradles available. Check also suspension wishbones, corrosion

4/ Main Chassis Rail – rear of main engine/suspension cradle back to mid crossmember: this chassis section, particularly where the chassis kicks up the bulkhead is liable to corrosion. Check also the top section under the bonnet by bulkhead, which forms the front crumple zone.

5/ Front Outrigger: Situated under front floorpan between main chassis and sills. Repair panel available. Rust very common in this member, check where it meets sill and main chassis rail, also above – the floorpan.

6/ Mid Crossmember: Rust is not common in this area but check. The handbrake is attached to this member on the driver’s side of the car by the sill.

7/ Rear Axle Mounting and Chassis over the Rear Axle: This can sometimes be an area of major corrosion particularly on early cars.

8/ Rear Chassis - below boot floor: Check rear section of chassis against rear valance, where rear bumpers are bolted.

The above is only a guide to rust problems in 120’s. Care should be taken to check all parts of the car but do remember that all of these cars are over 35 years old and some nearly 50.

TO SUMMERISE – MAIN AREAS OF RUST:

Lower rear section of front wings

Lower area of rear wings – front and rear of wheel arch

Front Panel/Front Wings – Area around headlight and front panel join.

Bottom of Doors – Skin and frame

Sills

Wheel arches,

Boot floor/Spare Wheel Well

Rear Tailgates - Estate

Front outriggers

Crossmember under radiator – check front edgeChassis rail under front wing – top of inner wing, from headlight bowl to bulkhead

Front Chassis around steering box/idler, anti-roll bar mount and bumper iron mounting

OTHER PROBLEM AREAS:

Early Interior hard to find in good second-hand condition – New interiors for later models in common colours available but very expensive.

Some chrome trim no longer available new particularly for early cars

Check condition of Bumpers and Overiders carefully – replacements can be expensive and modern reproduction items are often not of the same quality as original. Replating by a good Chroming Specialist can be a better option if required.

Window winder mechanisms can cause problems. The mechanism is chain driven with a cable in front doors. If you discover problems in this area it could be a broken cable or the metal frame which connects the mechanism to the window glass has rusted away. Second hand parts are available.

OTHER POINTS TO REMEMBER/CHECK:

Engine:

ALWAYS check that the car is fitted with a Genuine Volvo Oil Filter, other makes can cause problems with engine lubrication if they do not have the non-return valve fitted in them. A Volvo B18/B20 engine should cover over 200,000 miles without major rebuilding – although camshafts, valve guides and fibre timing gears may need replacement at around 100,000 miles.

Camshafts are particularly prone to wear at around 100,000 miles and can be mistaken by unskilled ears as Crankshaft Big End Bearing failure, more skilled enthusiasts will note the sound is only half engine speed – hence valve area. Fibre timing gears can be replaced with all steel gear sets – originals are one fibre, one steel. The originals are fine and give no problem but if you intend to up-rate the engine with a high lift cam etc, steel gears are a must.

Engines with high mileage’s can smoke particularly on start up of on over-run down hill. This will generally be caused by valve guide wear and oil running down valve into combustion chamber.

B16, B18 and B20 can be converted to run on unleaded. Original Valves fitted are already hard (Stellite) on B18 and B20 engines but valve seats will have to be replaced as they are soft (cast iron) – Unleaded head conversions are though the Club.

Manual Gearbox:

The manual gearbox fitted to the 120 is robust, long lived, and should not cause any real problem. When driving cars fitted with Overdrive it is best to ‘slip the clutch’ when engaging and dis-engaging overdrive. This helps to give a smooth operation and avoid damage to components. The use of the wrong oil can cause problems – Gear oil should never be used in gearboxes with overdrive. Oil is shared by the two units – checked and filled in the Gearbox. Manual Gearboxes without Overdrive use Gear Oil. Check Workshop Manual for Oil Grades. Overdrive Gearboxes are often found second hand from rusted 1800’s. Reconditioned Overdrives and Spares are available through the Club.

Auto Gearbox:

The Automatic Gearbox fitted to the 120 was made by Borg-Warner and gives little trouble. However if the vehicle has stood for a long period it may be worth having the box fully checked and serviced before use.

Rear Axle:

The rear axle is again almost indestructible; however, loss of oil can cause premature failure. Check for oil leaks down back of brake backplates (Half shaft oil seal leaking) and pinion bearing seal (where prop shaft bolts to axle). It is common on higher mileage cars to encounter differential whine, but this does not mean that the axle will not give further long service. Removal of the rear brake drums on the 120 models requires a Special Hub Puller, which can be hired by Members from the Club. Other Special Tools Available for members to Hire. The Club is always looking for Volvo Special Tools to purchase for Club Members Tool Hire.

Engine Types Fitted to UK Spec Vehicles:

B16A – 1583cc Single Carburettor 121 Models 1956 -1962

B16B – 1583cc Twin SU Carburettors 122S Models 1956 - 1962

B18A – 1778cc Single Carburettor 121/131 Models 1962 - 1968

B18D – 1778cc Twin SU Carburettor – 122S 1962-68

B18B – 1778cc Twin SU Carburettors – 123GT + some 122S models 1968 - 1969

B20A – 1986cc Single Zenith Carburettors – 131 Models 1968 - 1970

B20B – 1986cc Twin SU or Stromberg Carbs – 132 and 133 Models 1968 -1970

120 AMAZON BUYERS PRICE GUIDE: Values £500 - £5,000+

For Restoration:

For a car to use as a basis for a total restoration £200 - £500

Running but require work:

Running but in need of some major work in near future e.g. Front Wing replacement-

£500 - £1,500

Cars generally in good condition:

Cars generally in good condition but may need minor work to improve appearance – good useable car with no major faults or corrosion £1,500 – £2,500

The Best Cars:

The best cars – not concours but having only minor faults £2,500 – £5,000

The Very Best Cars – Concours Winners & Rebuilt:

Cars, which have been fully restored or are Concours standard, start at around £4,500+ depending on all round condition of the vehicle. Interior, chrome, originality, and low mileage will add to the price, as does documented history of the car, original bill of sale etc.

Be prepared to pay at least £1,000 more for a 123GT

IS IT A 123GT?

The rarest and most sought after model is the Volvo 123GT, a 2 door Amazon with the 1800S Sportscar running gear. These demand the best price but be very careful if you choose this model as there have been a number of cars sold which were found to be only copies.

Main features of the 123GT are:

123GT Badges – Front Wings and Boot Lid

‘GT’ Steering Wheel

Servo Brakes as standard

Overdrive as standard

Alternator as standard

Dash top with small tray on top – passenger side

‘F’ and ‘G’ Registration Only

B18B Engine with twin SU Carbs

Twin Front spotlights with covers

Special Front seats

Pod Rev Counter on top of dash

Wide Wheels 4 ½ J x 15 from 1800S – Standard 120 wheels 4J x 15

Chrome Wheel Embellishers

VOLVO ENTHUSIASTS CLUB SPARES SERVICE:

The Volvo Enthusiasts Club has a spares service which offers a wide range of Genuine, alternative and reproduction 120 parts to Members, Tel: 01425 476425 and provides Technical Information on other models.

VOLVO SPECIAL TOOL HIRE:

Members are able to hire a range of Volvo Special Tools from the Club. A list of tools available appears on our Web Site. The Club is always interested to here of any Special tools that are surplus to requirements to add to our stock. If you have or know of any available please contact Christina Tel: 01425 476425 Eves

COPYRIGHT:

Please Note: This Buyers Guide was produced by Christina Stadden and is the Copyright of the Volvo Enthusiasts Club. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without prior permission, in writing from:

Kevin Price, Volvo Enthusiasts Club, 127 Kidderminster Road, Bewdley, Worcs. DY12 1JE