Estate Rear Side Windows:

The rubber seal for the side rear windows is no longer available and rust in the section above the rear wings is extremely common. The holes drilled for the screws which hold the chrome trim were, when the cars were built not rust proofed effectively, being drilled after the car was painted, which causes major rust in this area. Check with care for ANY signs of rust coming from under the seal. Repair is expensive.

Inner Front Wings:

Check the condition of the inner front wings, particularly around the battery box. Also check the chassis rail under the wing, above the road wheel, which runs from the headlight bowl to the bulkhead.

Floorpan:

Rust in the front floorpan is common, particularly where it meets the bulkhead and above front outrigger, under the front seats above the mid crossmember and also under rear seats near the rear wheel arch. This area is very important to check as it is double skinned and is where the rear axle is mounted, so any corrosion in this area can be a problem. Front floorpan repair panels are available.

Boot Floor – Coupe & Estate:

Rust in this area is common due to poor rubber seals allowing in water. Check the inner valance under the car where it joins the bottom of the rear panel and the sides behind the rear lower section of the rear wing. Also check rear section of boor floor where it meets rear panel. The gap between the two should be regularly filled with Waxoil.

Front Chassis – Moving backwards from front panel:

1/ Front of chassis: Rust is particularly bad news here. Check around the steering box/steering idler and the anti-roll bar and front bumper iron mountings. 1800E/ES’s commonly have problems with cracking of the chassis around the steering box mounting. A repair section is available. Early cars have one bolt mounting of anti-roll bar to chassis – later have two.

2/ Radiator Crossmember: Check the condition of the radiator crossmember. This can be a very difficult member to replace if you don’t know how and I have found even on Concours winning cars that this member was in fact rusted badly. Often the member looks solid from the rear due to oil from the engine but is rotten at the front. To check the member lie on your back and put you had up behind the front valance, you will be able to feel the front of the box section. In extreme cases the front can have totally rusted away.

Replacement crossmembers are available and directions how to replace the section without removing the front panel.

3/ Engine Crossmember or Cradle: Rust can affect this major assembly- still available new but costing around £1000, second hand cradles available. Check also suspension wishbones, corrosion

4/ Main Chassis Rail – rear of main engine/suspension cradle back to mid crossmember: this chassis section, particularly where the chassis kicks up the bulkhead is liable to corrosion. Check also the top section under the bonnet by bulkhead, which forms the front crumple zone.

5/ Front Outrigger with Jacking Point: Situated under front floorpan between main chassis and sills. Genuine outriggers with jacking point (looks like inverted egg cup) not at present available. Repair panel has no jacking point. Rust very common in this member, check where it meets sill and main chassis rail, also above – the floorpan.

6/ Mid Crossmember: The handbrake is attached to this member on the driver’s side of the car by the sill. Check the condition of this member thoroughly, as often these can be very rusty.

7/ Rear Axle Mounting and Chassis over the Rear Axle: This can, particularly on early cars be a major area of corrosion. Extremely difficult and expensive to repair, particularly in the areas around the rear axle mountings and coil spring upper mounts. No repair panels for this area. Check particularly well under rear seats near wheel arch. Early cars have large pressed arms, which link rear axle to body. Check these with care. They are available new and if replaced or removed fill with Waxoil. Check lower drain holes are clear regularly.

8/ Rear Chassis - below boot floor: Check rear section of chassis against rear valance, where rear bumpers are bolted.

The above is only a guide to rust problems in 1800’s. Care should be taken to check all parts of the car but do remember that all of these cars are over 30 years old and some 45.